The first of twelve people, men and women, all of whom in their various ways work with food and all of whom are passionate about what they do. It's a truism to say there has been a revolution in food - but these twelve have all taken fresh approaches: all have a sense of rootedness and authenticity. It was a great pleasure meeting all of them: from the lovely Jeremy Lee working in a down-to-earth way at his grand and history-imbued Quo Vadis to the three artisan producers at Spa Terminus: extraordinary people working enormously hard at what they love. Our great thanks to them all.

Unhindered by conformities, Ole Hansen arrived in London treating the city as a 19th century Norwegian emigr to Canada might have treated a wilderness riverbank, going about establishing his livelihood using whatever means were available. Thus, discovering a disused boiler room in a Stoke Newington warehouse, he built his smokery in it. Finding his studio flat short on space, he built himself a wooden cabin hidden among the rooftops of east London.

His business is called Hansen and Lydersen after a salmon smokery founded by his great grandfather - whose original recipe he still follows. He uses only organically reared Norwegian salmon. His smoked salmon is utterly wonderful, melt-in-the-mouth, really the best.

Finally - Ole is very tall - the raincoat shown below is the same size as that Steve Benbow (whom it fits as it should) is wearing here.

Photography by Neil Gavin.

View the men's autumn winter 2013 collection here.

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